Nice

Hotel:

My go-to website for hotel research is always Vogue.com (thanks to finding an incredible, affordable bed-and-breakfast in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica through them). I discovered Hôtel du Couvent, an old convent from the 1600s that had just been renovated and opened to the public a year earlier. However, what really sold me was the heated Roman baths in the hotel’s basement. As a regular lap swimmer at Barton Springs who loves saunas and cold plunging, I had to stay here! The hotel sits atop a hill in Nice, absolutely bursting with luxury. My mouth dropped open when we walked in and I saw their onsite boulangerie where they mill their own flour, an herbalist shop, an incredible restaurant, and a rooftop pool with views spanning the entire city that light up at night. Truthfully, I don’t think I would have loved Nice as much if we hadn’t stayed here. The property felt like a complete escape from the city, and the yellow walls, tiled floors, flowers, greenery, Roman bath experience, and overall sense of peace just took over my whole being. The heated waters are matched with a sauna and cold plunge made of marble. Having this first-time experience with my parents was hilarious especially when my dad asked, “Now what do we do?” immediately upon entering the water. The croissants were hands-down the best I had during my entire France trip and in my life. Definitely worth paying that pastry chef to mill her own flour. I couldn’t stop alternating between bites of the plain and chocolate versions at breakfast. The $17 bread basket was completely worth it, plus I loved the orange blossom omelet.

Activities:

Definitely visit the farmers market, Marché aux fleurs, right down the road. We bought the most beautiful, amazing-smelling soaps for about two euros each. The red one has a fruity scent, with every color and flavor imaginable: eucalyptus, citron, lavender, and melon. You’ll see soaps all over the south of France, but this market had the best craftsmanship at somehow the cheapest prices. They also have the most beautiful dried fruits and strawberries, flowers, and anything else you could possibly want. Open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., closed Mondays.

If you don’t make it to Paris, make sure you visit their outpost of the famous Galeries Lafayette, where they have every designer brand here: Sandro, Maje, Chloe, and lots of great brands all under one roof (though the Paris location is way bigger).

Day Trip 1: Saint-Paul-de-Vence is about a 45-minute drive from the hotel and the most visited village in France. You have no idea how many twists, turns, and mini streets there are until you begin walking up into the town, where you can see a lookout onto the countryside filled with homes and large trees. My dad said it was the most beautiful sight he’d ever seen, which surprised me, but it was indeed pretty! We walked through the narrow streets shopping, bought a linen dress at Viktor, saw little art galleries and jewelry shops galore, walked through the cemetery where Chagall is buried, and watched the cute elderly locals play pétanque.

Then we ventured uphill to the Fondation Maeght, which is a sculpture garden and art gallery. I recognized Miró’s work immediately. The large paintings inside, with natural light and huge grassy grounds shining through the big windows, make this art gallery feel so soothing. We sat down in awe to stare at the giant Chagall and black-and-white photographs of our heroes, Matisse, Chagall, and Picasso, then basked in the grass afterward to take in the property’s aura.

Day Trip 2: We started the morning by taking the tram to the Marc Chagall National Museum, just about 15-20 minutes away. This Jewish artist is incredibly talented, creating large-format paintings that take your breath away. His exhibit tells an entire story from the Old Testament. We got there an hour before they closed for lunch, so we had some of the rooms to ourselves to look in awe. There was even a room dedicated to describing the entire process, including sketches and the history of the mosaic that we’d seen the day before at the Fondation, which made me feel well-informed for having already witnessed it.

Next, we took the bus up the hill just a few minutes to the Matisse Museum, where we learned about his passion for swimming, divers, and lots of work you might not even recognize if you’re a big fan of his. Then we Ubered to the small village of Eze, which is supposed to have the best views around. Make sure to buy a ticket for the Jardin Exotique d’Eze before you walk all the way up through the village of shops so you can skip the line. Unfortunately, it was overcast during our visit, but we didn’t let that stop us. The cacti game here is insane! Just enjoy wandering around up the steps and looking out onto the water and vegetation in the distance.

Finish with a drink at Hotel Château de La Chèvre d’Or for a stunning view!

Restaurants:

Les Mimosas du Cours – This part of Nice felt like Rome, with every table topped with pizzas and burrata made from fresh tomatoes from the farmer’s market right in front of this restaurant row. I had to try the dish this town is famous for: Niçoise salad! This baby was huge and could have been split. Topped with jammy soft-boiled eggs, anchovies (which were surprisingly really good), scallions, those same beefsteak yellow and red tomatoes, lettuce, and olives. The staff put on an exciting show with great hospitality.

Restaurant Renée – This was my favorite dinner in Nice. I love how the tables for four are round, so you feel on display in the middle of the dining room and can see your company. My good friend Hyo Jin, with whom I’ve traveled the world and is also a nomad, was living outside the city for six weeks, so it was such a magical rendezvous to see her and have dinner together. With gorgeous chandeliers, hot waiters, and a view of the ocean, we were set up for success along with our great company. We started with these peppers stuffed with ricotta and topped with anchovies that I must make for my next tinned fish party. My parents got the Dover sole, but it was the trout with a herby green sauce and clams that stole my heart. It might still be my favorite entrée of the entire two-week trip!

Hôtel du Couvent – You already know you can’t miss breakfast, but we had dinner one night here after our full day excursion. The menu seemed small, but the Cians Trout with Spring Peas and Raw Artichoke Salad with Citrus made me confident about eating at our hotel instead of venturing out. Nice is also known for its Socca, a thin, crispy chickpea flour flatbread, which we were served as bread at dinner.

Bocca Nissa – Make sure you book your reservation on the outdoor rooftop, or there’s really no point in going here. The views over the streets and all the plants make you feel like you’re on vacation. In summer, the sun doesn’t set until around 9 p.m., so you can stay up here all night and enjoy! My favorite dish was the eggplant with soft white cheese and the artichoke appetizer (the French eat what’s in season naturally so you’ll see lots of repetitive ingredients in a good way). While we randomly split the prawn paella, I didn’t love it as much as my parents did. That said, the experience, service, and decor make it a great way to start your trip for dinner in Nice where all the action is!

Fenocchio – There’s a reason there are two locations of this ice cream shop, one block away from each other. The line moves quickly, I loved the Gianduja (hazelnut) and Salted Caramel.

Another rec from a local to try next time: La Petite Maison

Aix-en-Provence

After three days in Nice, we were off to Aix-en-Provence by car, which is the easiest way to get there. This is Cézanne’s hometown, so most museums here are dedicated to him. Even our hotel. Once we arrived, we headed to Château La Coste since all the art museums in town were renovating and closed for a couple of weeks until the big Cézanne anniversary they’re celebrating starting in June 2025.

Hotel Cézanne – Since I made us stay at the luxury hotel in Nice, I found this more affordable spot in Aix. Big mistake. Not the hotel itself, but we didn’t have a lot of space in the room. However, the positive part is that this hotel’s breakfast had the best madeleines and mini buttery croissants to make it all worth it. The madeleine pastry originated in Aix, and there’s a popular shop called Madeleines De Christophe.

Dinner: La Rotonde – This was my second favorite meal of the whole trip. We sat outside facing the circular fountain in the middle of the neighborhood. My dad had the best chorizo pizza because the crust was so doughy, I kept staring at his plate. Can confirm it was! My mom and I split the steak tartare and ahi tuna, both of which won us over. It truly was one of the best steak tartares I’ve ever had. So good that we made Dad try it after he had downed the whole pizza, only to discover that he had never had steak tartare before (is that true, Dad?) and was shocked by its cold temperature and the fact that he was eating raw beef. We had tears in our eyes laughing watching his reaction, but I still thought it was the best meal before we had so much fun, and I just love how adventurous my mom will be with me when she literally eats the same breakfast and lunch everyday at home.

Activities:

Day Trip 1: Château La Coste is an incredible 500-acre sculpture playground with a big hike to each displayed art piece, a couple of indoor galleries along the trail, and a winery. This piece of land and art walk is a sight to see and took us about two hours, we didn’t even do it all! I loved the giant body by Damien Hirst when you first enter, the manicured lawns, crystal sculptures, and being in nature while discovering the 40 pieces onsite and learning about all the different artists. Francis Mallmann even has a restaurant here, and you can stay at the hotel onsite.

Day Trip 2: We spent a day driving through a few small towns to see the history and views from the top, such as Baux and Saint-Rémy– which had my favorite market for clothing, handmade goods, and jewelry. We saw the mental hospital where Van Gogh was admitted, and then had lunch at Bar Tabac des Alpilles. The menu written on a chalkboard is small and quaint, and we shared one little table for the three of us, looking out onto the street. I had my usual, gravlax salmon. Man, is the south of France a seafood lover’s delight!

Then we continued driving to Arles, where we could see the actual farmland, skies, and haystacks that Van Gogh replicated on his canvases. If you want to see a real-life painting come to life before your eyes, this is one of the coolest full-circle moments I’ve witnessed, having paid attention and grown up learning about the Impressionist world. It was also perfect timing since we had just visited his museum a couple of days prior in Amsterdam. We saw the Arles Arena, which is similar to a smaller version of the Colosseum, as well as other restaurants he painted and the hospital he went to after cutting off his ear! Then we moved on to Avignon, where we spent a couple of days, and then took the train to Amboise in the Loire Valley!

Loire Valley

Hotels:

Le Manoir Saint Thomas – One thing I should mention is how my mom is obsessed with Rick Steves. She studied his France books for months, brought them on every train, and whipped them out at breakfast. He was basically our fourth travel companion. If you want to feel like royalty without the stuffy formality, stay at a château hotel in Amboise. The Loire Valley is massive, but this hotel feels intimate and personal, with only about a dozen rooms. The lush backyard and incredible game room with velvet chairs make you feel like you have this magical space all to yourselves. Our room had rich blues and reds with ceilings painted like we were sleeping in the Sistine Chapel.

Hotel Restaurant Le Clos d’Amboise – This is their sister hotel down the street, and since Le Manoir only had one night available, we moved here for our last two nights, which were equally enchanting. This one had a restaurant, an underground sauna, and a pool (though it was too chilly to use). We dined in their garden restaurant and opted for the surprise tasting menu instead of choosing our courses, which I usually dislike, but nothing on the menu appealed to me, so it was a risk I was willing to take. We told them to surprise us and make it seafood-heavy—definitely the right call!

Restaurants:

Patisserie Chocolaterie Bigot – Opened since 1913, this multi-generational bakery and homemade chocolate shop is where we had omelettes, croissants, and salads upon our arrival. Sitting out in front of the Chateau Ambiose (where we visited and saw Leonardo Da Vinci’s grave in the chapel), eating our breakfast delightfully, and then scoping out the new pastries they put on the racks before lunchtime made a simple gesture so much fun. We met the daughter and great granddaughter of the family, and they are all working there and live above the restaurant and shop. Keep walking down this street to get lost in the shopping.

Chez Bruno – Super bistro-y and casual, and all you can ask for, a little joint to feel into this little town. Oddly enough, this was the best salad we had on the entire trip, as it seemed hard to find big, veggie-packed dishes, so we devoured this salad with wonton-style goat cheese triangles on top. We got the special Shrimp Risotto. It was ideal for our first night! 

L’Ecluse is hands down the best restaurant in Amboise. Like many spots here, you choose your number of courses—my mom and I did four because the menu sounded incredible! My dad totally pulled a me and asked to meet the chef after his steak because he wanted to thank “him.” Plot twist: this badass chef was a woman! This was our most creative meal of the trip. I mean, have you ever heard of Duck Sushi? It was an appetizer of duck breast sushi over rice paired with roasted duck, granola, and foie gras sauce. So jazzed and proud of my mom for trying this. 

Something magical happened when my mom (who eats the same thing daily) ordered the Eel with Thai Curry Squid Ink Sauce, while I got the Loire Catfish with chimichurri. My fish had this amazing spicy pop after a week of pure seafood—it really tasted like curry! We tasted each other’s dishes and loved our own best, but I was confused by what I was eating versus the menu description. Turns out, they switched our plates! I got the eel, my mom got the catfish. Can’t trick my tastebuds, and thank you universe for this gift! Then my dad swapped his Confit Lamb with my mom’s Beef Filet—we had a ball playing musical plates. Even the giant passion fruit macaron made me like that colorful French dessert, and I usually hate those things. This night made Amboise unforgettable.

Activities:

You definitely need to hire a tour guide to take you through the chateaus, or you’ll miss the entire purpose and history of this whole town. Thanks to Rick Steves and my mom’s doctor, we hired Aurzelle, who is actually a New Yorker turned Parisian in the last 20 years with a PHD in French history. You can contact and book her here: [email protected]

We had two days in Amboise, so it was quick, but there are plenty of wineries you can venture to if you’d rather do that or have more time! 

Château de Chenonceau was our first stop and the closest château to the center of Amboise. We learned heavy amounts of history about King Francis I, his son, King Henry II, and his wife, Catherine de Medici, who lived here along with Henry’s mistress Diane. Learning every single detail from the golden threads used in the tapestries to the gardens, how Chanel “took” the “C” logo from Catherine’s branding in the house, to the different bedrooms, and more is mindblowing. Aurzelle has so much knowledge that I wanted to take notes, but it’s impossible to remember all these players’ names. She was so kind to repeat facts and also tell us it’s okay if we couldn’t follow them all. I am beyond impressed that this château, built in the 1500s, is so ornate and filled with so much history that sometimes seems pretty aligned with today still. We walked through the vegetable and flower garden on our way out, and I loved the giant overarching trees with a little pond at the entrance/exit on our way out. Walking through the château was picturesque and something I hadn’t seen before like this until…

Château de Chambord absolutely crushed and felt like a movie—this massive 13,500-acre estate appeared before us after just over an hour’s drive. It’s the largest walled-in forest park in Europe, and you can see why! We explored views from the rooftop, ornate bedrooms, and those famous double helix staircases (rumored to be designed by Leonardo da Vinci himself). Here’s the wild part: King Francis I and Leonardo were tight, and Francis spent his final years obsessing over this château’s construction, only to live in it for under 100 days before he died. We left our hotel at 9 a.m. and didn’t get back until after 5 p.m.—definitely a jam-packed day but worth all the lessons and views!

Visiting these chateaux is a must in the Loire Valley. They are everywhere, and these are the two my mom chose because of their proximity and history. Next, we took the high-speed train to Paris for our last leg.

Restaurants:

L’Altro Frenchie is the newest restaurant from THE Frenchie restaurant crew of Frenchie Bar à Vins and Frenchie (the tasting menu), all on the same block. However, this is their Italian version. I loved it more than their wine bar, but I suppose that’s a little unfair, given the larger menu. The Crudo Misto with Tuna, Mackerel, Sea Bream floating atop their Arrabbiata sauce, which was probably a thousand different fresh green herbs melded together to make this aromatic, earthy sauce, created a flutter in my heart. Could this be the best seafood dish of our trip? The oyster plate they served it in really completed the experience. We also enjoyed the Sardine Toast, Side Salad, Snap Peas, and Spaghetti and Meatballs. I had no problem making a res at the beginning of June! Exceptional service, too. They also have a neatly tucked back room that would make for an excellent private party space.

Les Enfants du Marché is a wine bar serving elevated dishes within one of the oldest 17th-century markets, the Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouge, which is overflowing with diverse ethnic cuisines from Morocco, Africa, Japan, and more. Every restaurant person in my community told me to eat at this wine bar. I met my friend Nicole, who had just moved to Paris from NYC. We sat at the counter, enjoying the menu of the day and watching the chefs do their thing. The Zucchini 3 Ways, with an incredible green zucchini dip, was my favorite, as well as the Octopus. Their menu also included Turbot, Escargot, Sardines Tempura, Squid Karage, Dry Aged Sirloin, etc. Honestly, at first, there was nothing that piqued my interest for lunchtime, but don’t let the menu scare you, it’s worth it! 

Café de La Poste – When I stayed at an Airbnb around the block last summer, I noticed this charming café, open for breakfast and aperitivo hours, with a young crowd gathered outside. The menu is exactly what anyone would want for brunch or breakfast: omelettes, pancakes, granola, a burger, and for me, always: a tuna bowl. My dad said it was the best ham & cheese omelette he had on our whole vacation. It also appears to be a cute place to take a meeting or work from.

Semilla – Located in the 6th arrondissement, this is a true farm-to-table French restaurant. As you can see, most of the places I’ve written about don’t have the traditional frog legs, French onion soup, or steak frites that Americans might think of for bistro food. This was our last meal, and it made my adrenaline surge as I sat right next to the open kitchen, watching them cook and communicate together to make the dance of running a restaurant a success. I love how young everyone is and especially when they brought out the giant salt-crusted whole seabass to guests to show them what it looked like before they deboned and skinned it. What a presentation and marvelous show!  The energy reminded me of a Brooklyn restaurant, and you could tell they were having fun! The drill is: two courses for 55 euros, three courses for 70 euros, or five courses at the kitchen’s choice for 90 euros. We did two, heck, I was so tired from our full day, and I enjoyed the eggplant with mushroom appetizer. My dad had a langoustine cappelletti that was divine, and my mom had a tuna sashimi. Additionally, I read that Ruth Reichl came here because Alice Waters, the renowned chef behind Chez Panisse, who helped popularize sustainable and organic ingredients in California restaurants, loves it. 

L’Ami Jean – Speaking of Ruth Reichl, she is the former New York Times and LA Times Restaurant Critic and my favorite food writer. I can taste and feel the air in any city she is writing about, and since she recommended L’Ami Jean, I had to go! This is definitely the traditional, tight-knit French bistro you’re looking for. It’s so small that to get into our booth, they had to pull the whole table out so we could squeeze in next to the other diners. This is also what makes it so fun because you become friends with your neighbors. I finally got my roast chicken, which comes with rosemary, flaming in the dish, right out of the kitchen. My mom ate her entire duck, and my dad got a beef stew. The almond basque cake, however, was my favorite part of the meal! After dinner, stroll a few blocks down to the Seine and watch the Eiffel Tower lights go off on the hour. It’s such a joy to watch the French people taking advantage of their beautiful streets and seeing monuments around them.

Museums:

Picasso The first time I went to this museum was the biggest disappointment in the world. Somehow, they removed all the paintings for the first takeover by some terrible (sorry) artist, who had white sheets covering canvases everywhere. Then the best thing happened: I visited the Pompidou Museum, and all of his works were there. What a joke on me. Ok ok, so this time on our last day after strolling around La Marais, we saw the big, beautiful Picasso museum, and decided to venture in for an hour. The building is truly remarkable, and each piece is beautifully hung and paired well with each period. I really love it here and always learn so much, seeing things you wouldn’t recognize from the artist. I also really enjoy seeing the sketches of what the art will become on canvas. Great gift shop, too. 

Musée des impressionnismes Giverny – Monet’s gorgeous gardens and water lily ponds are about an hour and a half drive from Paris (longer if there’s traffic or a taxi strike like we experienced). Seeing the actual subjects of his famous paintings makes you feel so connected to Monet and his creative process. I LOVED walking through both gardens—the water garden and the flower garden across the street that surrounds his house. We arrived at 5 p.m. after getting distracted at The French Bastards and Picasso Museum, giving us only an hour before closing. But honestly, the timing was perfect—crowds were gone and we practically had the place to ourselves! The lily pads weren’t at peak bloom, but the flowers were STUPENDOUS. Monet designed these gardens himself, and touring his home with that incredibly bright yellow dining room (big enough for 8 kids!) will either make you want to move in or completely redecorate. I felt so connected to him in that dining room—not just because I love yellow, but because I also painted my dining room wall yellow when I moved in! Next time I’m definitely staying at one of the local hotels to spend a whole afternoon here. Highly recommend.

Tip: If you are going Summer 2025, make sure to visit these two popular exhibits, as these are some of my favorite museums:  David Hockney’s exhibition at Fondation Louis Vuitton, which has been selling out fast, so buy tickets in advance. Bourse de Commerce “clinamen” aquatic and musical installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot,

Boulangeries:

The French Bastards – This has always been my favorite boulangerie. I’m obsessed with their Nutella-stuffed cylinder laminated treat, but this time I went for their newest creation: the Cookie Roll (half-baked cookie + chocolate croissant dough + spread). Biting into this massive thing, I didn’t know what hit me—the tip is literally cookie dough that stuck to the roof of my mouth! I powered through to the melted chocolate center and loved it so much I could barely eat dinner. On our last day, we returned for their Milk Chocolate Banana Bread stuffed with a caramel layer under the chocolate. My parents and I each got two pastries and sat on their tiny couch saying “mmm” while destroying them with crumbs everywhere. Love that three best childhood friends started this company!

Copains – It feels sinful having gluten-free pastries in Paris, but I don’t discriminate if it tastes good! I met up with my longtime client, Chef Jam Sanitchat of Thai Fresh and Gati, here since she was in Paris and can’t eat wheat. I’d actually tried their matcha cake before (it’s located next to my favorite vintage shop, Kiliwatch), but I didn’t love it. THIS time, their hockey puck-sized biscuit stuffed with pistachio cream and covered in white chocolate with pistachio crumble totally won me over. It tasted like a buttery biscuit and flaky pastry all at once.

Petit Île Boulangerie – This Vietnamese couple is famous for their Sesame Chocolate Croissant, which the New York Times encouraged me to try. I know what I love (lots of melted chocolate and doughy, buttery layers), but I’ve learned to try new things to better understand my preferences. This croissant is ideal for people who don’t love sweets as much as I do.

Sain – I read they had the best plain croissant in Paris. The green tile and gorgeous displays had me drooling, but I got nervous and fumbled by ordering a Pépito (flat croissant with chocolate and cream) instead of the famous plain. Big mistake—I learned I hate flat laminated pastries! Next time, I’m going straight for the brownie or croissant.

Galeries Lafayette – You might be surprised to see this designer mall in my dessert section! While my parents browsed housewares, I spotted TWO of my favorite boulangeries with outposts here: Chez Meunier and L’Éclair de Génie Café. Not as exciting as visiting individual shops, but perfect for sampling multiple famous bakeries under one roof before sitting on the Opera House steps to enjoy!

Honorable Mentions: Jeffrey Cagnes Paris – Always gets great reviews, but I never find anything I want + Lam – Wanted their pistachio croissant but they were sold out!

Shops:

• RSVP – My favorite local bag designer
• Oh My Cream! – Besides the pharmacies you see everywhere in France, this makeup and skincare shop which also does facials, has an incredible selection and the only place I found face oils. They have everything from sparkly eye shadow sticks, lip gloss, sleep aids, moisturizer, and top tier brands you might have heard of but also a lot of European ones you’ll want to get on your face!
• Bobbies – My favorite local shoe boutique for white sneakers, small heels, sandals, and platforms
• Kiliwatch Concept Store – The largest vintage shop for men and women with street wear and contemporary clothing in between. They have the best leather jackets in the winter, denim year-round, and some cool colorful pieces and jumpsuits.
• Liao et Filles– Jewelry that looks fine yet isn’t very expensive. I got cute gold-plated escargot earrings, my mom got a gold chain necklace, and I got diamond heart studs for $18!

My quintessential day in the Marais historic district: Start with breakfast at Cafe de La Poste, shop around these streets buying makeup at Oh My Cream!, shoes at Bobbie, a bag at RSVP, stroll into small art galleries like Nil and talk with the staff about where the artists are from. Meet a friend for wine at Le Saint-Gervais or La Perle,  and then you might as well pop into the Picasso Museum. Grab a pastry at The French Bastards and then call an Uber to take you to Monet Garden, where you can frolic through his house, incredible flowers, and water lilies. This was not only the last day of our trip but my most iconic and memorable day in Paris, where I got to enjoy walking, food, croissants, the epitome of shopping in Le Marais, and visit two of my favorite artists.